Kep is a seaside resort in Cambodia. Cambodia's top seaside destination until eclipsed in the 1960s by Sihanoukville (and, soon after, decades of civil war), today's Kep is slowly being rediscovered by travellers.

Getting there

From Kampot: The road from Kampot to Kep is paved and smooth. 25km, 30-45 minute trip. Follow the road from Kampot to the White Horse Monument. Bear right at the monument (go straight to Kampong Trach.) At the next main turnoff, bear right onto the oceanfront road to the Kep Beach area. Motodups charge about $2 - $3 one way and $6 round trip. Package day tours to Kep out of Kampot also often include a visit to at other nearby destinations such as Rabbit Island, the caves between Kampot and Kep and a pepper plantation. Sok Lim Tours is offering moto-trailer tours to Kep for $3/person.

From Phnom Penh: There are two bus companies driving to Kep, leaving PP at 7AM and 1PM either from the central Market or the Olympic Market at $ 5/person. The more comfortable way is hiring your own taxi at $ 40-50.

From Ha Tien, Vietnam: Take a motorbike taxi. Bargain hard. It is a 45min journey mainly on a dirt road. Cost 100,000+ dong per person.

Getting around

The best way to move around Kep is rent a motorcycle at around US$7 for a small 125 cc or around US$ 14 for a 250 cc. A nice and peaceful way is also to get a bicycle from your guest house or from the Led Zep cafe.

Things to see

Kep Beach. A single, kilometer long crescent of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted during the week. The road through Kep traces the coastline to the beach and then circles back on itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive the loop (2500R-5000R). Motorcycles and pedestrians are free. Be aware that the loop is an one way street and the police do occasionally enforce the law, levying fines against violators.

Kep Mountain. There is an easy trail going full circle around the hill above Kep in the National Park. It's a wonderful piece of jungle, in which it is quite probable to see some monkeys and other animals. The trail is about 8km long (a 2-3 hour walk) and has a lot of direction signs made by Christian from the Led Zep Cafe.

Kampot Pepper. An absolute must is to visit the Pepper plantation at Phnom Voir mountain, about 20min drive from Kep. This pepper used to be the number one pepper in the world and all the good french restaurants had it. It is having a revival at the moment with some local NGO (Farmlink) helping promote and plant it again.

Colonial Villas. There are around 100 or more old french villas, mostly destroyed by the Vietnamese army and some of them overgrown like Angkor Wat - quite a spooky feeling. Some of them have been restored, but most of them are in possession of rich military officials who are waiting to sell it at the highest price.

Caves. Around Kep there are 3 major caves, some with small shrines inside. The most impressive and biggest one is the one near Kompong Trach with beautiful limestone formations. You can also find a swimming cave nearby.

Crabs. No visit to Kep is complete without having a least one meal of the fresh crabs, apparently the best one in Cambodia.

Rabbit Island. Rabbit island is only a 20 minute boat trip (around 8-10USD one way) away from Kep beach. Bungalows on Rabbit Island are quaint and cheap (from 5USD a night), and is generally pretty quiet. One of the nicest remote islands worth seeing in Cambodia.

Things to do

Lida Massage, National Road, ? 012 953 427. Great Massages (Thai, Oil or Steam) for only USD 7, located just next to the Kep Lodge.

Sailing Club, next to the crab market a newly established place called the Sailing club has commenced activities, where you can rent catamarans, kayaks and even a speedboat. They now also have a eating menu with some special food.

Things to buy

Lily Perles, near Crab Market, ? 017 306 550. daytime. Liliperles, a new shop in town which sells 'bees' from all over the world for very reasonable prices. Lily and Stefan the owner have been doing this for years and their collection is huge and very tastefully. They also have a small school for free, for learning French to the local people. Better leave your wife at home, otherwise your wallet will shrink a lot. I warned you!

Eating

Kep is famous for its crabs and you can get live crab in the crab market. Crabs are caught using line and are left in the floating cage in the sea. For a dollar or 2 you can get the hotel to cook or steam the crabs.

You can also go to one of the crab restaurants built over the seashore along the road out of town (the Crabmarket - towards Kampot). The crabs cooked with fresh Kampot peppercorns are to die for!